About 15km further on we came to the entrance of a pull off we had noticed on the way in to Iron Range the week before. We missed the first one, but it seemed to be a loop, so we went in the second one. As we came back around there was a ute with a slide-on camper with the bonnet up. We pulled up a short distance away and grabbed the camera and binoculars to see what birds were around. As we walked past we asked if they needed help, or if they were just doing routine maintenance. They said they weren't yet sure...
When we walked around the corner we discovered a huge old gravel pit with a lovely view back towards the east. It was windy, and there weren't any birds around, but we decided it would make a great camp for the night.
On our way back past the ute they decided they might need help with a jump start. They had lost a fuel cap a few days before and didn't know how much dust might have got in before they noticed it and stuffed a rag in as a temporary measure. They had bought a new fuel cap, and a fuel filter in case they had problems. Just before the gravel pit their car had started sputtering and the engine light came on, so they pulled in to change the filter. He had tried to prime the line, but wasn't getting good pressure, and trying to start it had drained his battery. We pulled up alongside and connected our jumper leads, but it still wouldn't start. Off with the filter again, and another top-up with a bit of diesel from our jerry can (easier than trying to syphon it from his fuel tank), and another go, but still no luck. After trying a few more things they decided a call to RACQ might be necessary, so we set up our Starlink for them to use. The guy from Coen would come out in the morning and bring his tow truck in case he couldn't get it going.
We went around the corner and set up camp, and decided we'd actually stay two nights because it was nice, and then Dazz could catch up on some work. As we were setting up our new neighbours announced they would make us dinner - fresh barramundi that he had caught in Karumba a couple of days before. Who could refuse an offer like that?! Dazz collected some firewood and we had a lovely dinner.
The mechanic/tow truck driver came out the next day and was able to prime the line and get our neighbours back on the road. We also learned a bit about priming diesel engines.
The following day it was back to the PDR (Peninsula Development Road). Lunch was at the Archer River.
We stayed overnight on the Coen River again, since we knew it was such a lovely spot. In the three and a half weeks since we were last there the melaleucas had started to flower and there were birds in the trees right in front of our caravan.
This part of our trip involved lots of short driving days, which was nice. It was about 110kms down to Musgrave Roadhouse. We were now closer to Cairns than The Top, which was a little bit sad!
There is a small dam behind the roadhouse with freshwater crocodiles that apparently get fed. No one came to feed them the afternoon we were there, but at 5pm they all made their way to the bank, clearly hoping for something to eat. They have fenced the dam to keep the crocs from wandering up to the camp so we were perfectly safe.
Saltwater Creek, just next to the roadhouse
We stayed at Musgrave for two nights so we could do a day trip into the northern part of Lakefield National Park, but I'll put the photos from that in a separate post.
Our next stop was only another 25km down the road to Artemis Station. This is the place to come to see Golden-shouldered Parrots. They nest inside termite mounds and are endangered. The station has a small population of the birds and have worked on land management and burning practices to return the vegetation to more open woodland (rather than brushy undergrowth), which allows the parrots to better see and escape from predators like sand goannas and butcher birds. They also have a number of feeding stations which support the population, help them avoid predators when feeding (because they are not on the ground eating grass seeds) and increase the chances of people seeing them! In spite of the feeding stations, there are no guarantees, so we had low expectations. We were pleasantly surprised to see quite a few birds coming and going, but unfortunately there were no mature males.
Golden-shouldered Parrot (immature males)
Golden-shouldered Parrot (female)
The campsite was nothing flash, but we could fill up with water, which meant I could catch up on washing.
Forest Kingfisher
Black-backed Butcherbird
Grey-crowned Babbler
Another "big" driving day of 84km got us down to Fairview Station. Dazz had talked to a guy who had done the station tour and he said it was really good, with some great rock art. The first part of the day was a tag-along, so we met at the front at the appointed time and discovered it was just us! I drove so Dazz could take photos from the car if we came across any interesting wildlife (which we didn't). It's described as including some Level 1 4WDing and there were some soft sand patches, a few washouts that got us onto sideways angles that I really don't enjoy (as a driver or passenger) and a small rock step. It was clearly not challenging enough for Dazz to think to take any photos...
The first rock formation could be Wedge-tailed Eagle or a turtle watching over the landscape.
The rocks contained really interesting patterns and colours, as well as the art.
A turtle and maybe a stick...
This rock was totally flat on one side, but there was no corresponding flat surface that it had come off above it!
Looking along the flat edge of the rock.
We headed south alongside the PDR for a couple of kilometres before turning into the paddock on the other side of the road. It was a nice clear day, and being high up in the truck gave a nice view down over the plains.
Dazz was on gate duty.
The Little Laura River from the bridge on the way back.
Blue-faced Honeyeater - the only bird worth taking a photo of in our couple of days at Fairview Station.
